#Wood_Flooring_Laminate. #Herringbone_Wood_Floor Step-By-Step Installation. #DIY_CAM
Veering off course by even a fraction of an inch will send the whole pattern into helter-skelter. But don’t worry—Peterson’s method will keep you on track. Mercifully, he used prefinished planks for our project, so no sanding or sealing.
Mark the Centerline.
Snap a chalk line down the center of the room, along its length. Then use a trammel to mark a perpendicular line: With the trammel’s point on one end of the centerline, draw a semicircle across it; from the other end, draw intersecting arcs, as shown. Use a straightedge to connect the points where the arcs intersect. Now you can measure off of these perpendicular lines to create the rectangular field the #herringbone will occupy.
Set the Slat Length.
Herringbone slats must be cut to a length that is an exact multiple of their width. But unless you’re a math genius, first lay out pieces to see what approximate length will fit within your field; you want to land with a full-length slat at each side. Use a rafter square to place the first piece at a 45-degree angle to the centerline, then zigzag out to the side, overlapping pieces at 90 degrees to adjust for length. Once you’re in the ballpark, set the exact length and note that measurement. We chose a length of 27 inches to work with our 3-inch-wide flooring.
Make a Test Panel.
Once you have your slat length, measure and mark one strip, with the tongue end as waste, and cut it with a miter saw. Use a rubber mallet to dry-fit the number of strips that equal the length of the test slat—nine in our case. Butt the tongue of the test slat into the panel’s end groove to make sure the slat’s ends are perfectly flush with the panel’s edges, as shown. If they’re not, size another piece and test it again.
Cut the Slats.
When you’re satisfied with the slat length, set up a stop block and cut the remaining slats, making sure to chop off the tongue ends.
Tip: Sweep out any sawdust at the stop block after every cut; otherwise the buildup will throw off all your efforts to make slats of a precisely equal length.
Add Grooves to the Flat Ends.
Herringbone slats need grooves in both ends to properly interlock. Use the groove of a slat to set the depth of the flooring router bit. Clamp one slat to a workbench and rout the cut end. Fit a tongue inside the new groove to check your work. If it’s okay, rout the rest of the slats.
Set the Working Distance.
You’ll need to draw parallel working lines on either side of the centerline to align the corners of each slat as you place it. Use a rafter square to mark a 45-degree angle from one corner of a slat, as shown, for your first working line.
Mark the Floor.
Install the Nailing Blank.
Establish the Pattern.
Nail the Slats in Place.
Finish the Course and Reverse the Blank.
Begin the Second Course.
Backfill the Empty Triangles.
Mark the Overlap for Removal.
Cut Off the Excess.
Add Grooves to the Edges.
Attach a Feature Strip.
Nail the Border Pieces.
0:10 – Necessary Materials and Tools;
0:20 – #Herringbone_Wood_Floor_Installation;
1:35 – Result of #Herringbone_Wood_Floor Step-By-Step Installation.
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