Removing, Insulating and Restoring a Suspended Wooden Floor. Part 1 of 3

In this video we filmed step by step as we lifted the original pine floor boards. We are planning to insulate and airtight the ground floor before replacing and restoring the boards.

Lifting Bar : http://amzn.to/2o0rgC1
Voltage Pen : http://amzn.to/2nMdHUU

Check out our website for more info on how we did it and other renovation projects.

www.restorationcouple.com

Music by Jason Shaw

“GREEN LEAVES” by Jason Shaw (http://audionautix.com/index.html)
“AUTUMN SUNSET” by Jason Shaw (http://audionautix.com/index.html)

Comments

Rob Smith says:

A nice trick for nails without heads is to put a set of mole grips onto the nail and use your claw hammer to pull the clawhammer+nail out.

vandalstookthehandle says:

As were are on a public site, I offer this PURELY as info for your viewers, who should be aware of all the info out there. I really am hoping there are no problems with your insulation. However, I need to insulate under my ventilated floor and was looking at using Celotex or Kingspan. They do have good thermal values in relation to there depth..and I only have 50 or 75mm to play with..however, as they are rigid materials I was concerned that as the wood moved with humidity changes the rigid insulation would not fill any gaps that might appear…So  alternatively,I also researched wool insulation (as I hate the itchy stuff), and was all set to go. Unfortunately I then found the articles below and was unfortunately turned off big time…click the links below. I would love to know where the eco world stand now with wool insulation.
Like I said at the start…I am hoping you have no probs with your insulation. Great vids, great logo and very professionally presented.

http://ntenvironmentalwork.net/2011/05/26/problems-with-one-batch-of-wool-insulation/
http://www.thegreenlivingforum.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=104796

eternalfizzer says:

I just pulled half the boards in a room of my 1892 rowhouse – tongue and groove boards so dry some split at the nails. Since I could trim off one end (to install a new bottom plate), I had a loose end I could pry up with (gently). Gradually, I learned to squeak up the next joist’s nails, then put a prybar under that section and step on the free end to pop up the next section. Tongue and groove made things a lot trickier.

Thanks for showing how you did it – validates my methods (numbering boards, pulling nails) and gives me a few ideas (love your lifting bar!).

eternalfizzer says:

Would love to see how you got the first board up 🙂

gizmorow21 says:

Hi please could you help me, we like a house that are thinking of buying it is a timber frame built but it has a suspended timber frame floor this seems very non traditional why would a builder do this  should we be worried  how long is it likely to last    thank sDave

arjuna207 says:

ikea hammer 🙂

vandalstookthehandle says:

I like your videos. A lot of very hard work you’re doing there, which I admire.Doing similar stuff myself to my victorian house. Hindsight is a wonderful thing…just google sheeps wool insulation…and moth infestation. Did you know about this?

George Akers says:

Nice. I’m surprised, no tongue and groove. Is that typical in your area? Where was your project?

swanthorn says:

brilliant video!! many thanks!

Jamie Fekete says:

Hi – great video… Can you please write the name of the floorboard puller? Google isn’t coming up with any answers when searching for the one you have. Thanks…

James Wilson says:

You didnt show how you remove the first floor board , why not, surely thats the most difficult bit

umberto giannini says:

Great video, doing exactly the same myself in our front room, still not sure about insulating underneath. 

Andrew Gibbins says:

Hi, loved the video.
I just did our floor a few weeks ago, however we used a pir product and I chose to treat the joists …. Just because really.
Anyway I have a question, I have seen conflicting opinions on fitting a vapour barrier above insulation (specifically pir). I note that you chose to fit one, can you point me to the guidance on it?
Cheers

Akeem Perez says:

I’m trying to do this with my father’s garage. it has a studio in top and he needs new floors dry wall and insulation. it’s gonna be a bitch to do.

Zed Man says:

At this point would be a good idea to treat the timbers with a preservative and or wood rot treat, give it some extra life.

gizmorow21 says:

Forgot to say house is only 12 years old

Harpreet Singh says:

Hi – I need to insulate underfloor but i have a nice floating floor (engineered wood) ladi over 18mm chipboard floor. the chipboard is nailed onto joists. I believe the floor is click lock pattern. Please can you advise how can i remove the floor without much of damage?

ian tansey says:

Hi, how long did it take to remove all floorboards, install insulation and then relay. Thanks

Messimagician83 says:

Hows the floor now since its been insulated ? Can you get under the floor at all from another room to see if condensation is forming ? Wouldn’t nailing through the vapour barrier cause condensation in the joist ? How did you seal the cut outs around pipe work coming up through the floor ? How far did you take the vapour barrier over to floors which have not been insulated. I’m looking to insulate my living room and dining room but I’m just a bit concerned it might cause problems so want to make sure i do it right. Thanks

Zeeshan Aziz says:

You never show that how your remove the first floor board 🙁

Tim Doran says:

Thanks for the advice. We have just finished doing our floor as you described. Also bought the floorboard lifter and it is excellent.

Jonathan Greenwood says:

Thanks for posting the videos. I really enjoyed watching them and love the format. I have to replace a suspended floor above a large cellar. The joists are rotten and laced with woodworm so I have slightly more to do than your did yourselves. Should make a nice bonfire. Useful to know about the vapour layer which I had not considered.

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