How To Properly Install Hardwood Flooring

How to properly install your hardwood flooring using our Gaylord Hardwood Flooring installation guidelines. We will walk you through every step of our installation process beginning with checking your moisture content until you are ready for clean-up and inspection.

Speficially discussing: [1] Moisture content [2] Subfloor inspection/preparation [3] Undercutting doorjams/casings [4] Squaring up a room [5] Chalk line/backer board install [6] Laying underlay [7] Nailing with a flooring nailer [8] Board Placement [9] Installing Spline [10] Installing flush floor vents [11] Calculated needed expansion space [12] Filling face nail holes [13] Clean up & Inspection

More Install videos on our Youtube Channel!

Visit us at [www.gaylordhardwoodflooring.com]

Comments

Davy Scales says:

Good video but the company’s name i had to laugh at…

Rachel Kyle says:

I am watching my flooring being installed (Bruce HW Hickory) and I noticed some small gaps – at the ends of the boards. I can fit my fingernail into these spaces. Also, there are few corners raised on the transition where he rotated a board to meet the threshhold. I don’t mind this type of transition but the corners that stick up will definately hurt. What to do?

Ed H says:

Do not use cleats at all

FinnTheThird III says:

I can’t get over your company name.

Eileen Lannon says:

Thank you for all the advice. Now how do I show this to the guys who are going to install my floors and not insult them?

Jose Compuesto says:

Thank You for the fantastic video! Great Help Guys!!

liquidblue says:

EMPIRE PUT WOOD FLOORING IN OUR HOME AND DID NOT PUT ANY TYPE OF PAPER OR PADDING JUST THE WOOD WE CHOOSE FOR THE FLOOR

PBS #007 says:

best video i have seen thanks

DEWAYNE METCALFE says:

What is wrong when glue keep coming between the gaps of the floor. The floor has been down for about a year but it is still gushing glue in only one section

Dmitry Alekhin says:

bullshit regarding expansion of nailed down floor. If it is installed properly – there is no movement at all. Metal cleats every 3 inches hold board so tight , so it is even impossible to move it in a fraction of inch even if you hit it with mallet. Expansion gap is required only for floating floors like laminate , cork etc. Every single video on youtube says leave expansion gap 3/4, 1/2 , 1 in etc. Its bullshit.

TheFotogeek says:

I was wondering if you could step back further from the camera, and tilt up more? I think it would feel more natural.

Claymore Dog says:

thanks for the info

PBS #007 says:

great video the best i have seen thanks

Don Powell says:

I am about to install, the new floor has zero percent moisture while subfloor has 7%… help!

Daxesh Patel says:

Easy to understand and very helpful information … Good job guys Thanks a lot.

eric bilharz says:

It’s not a floating floor no need to leave space along wall. It’s nail in. How dum. He said for a 30 ft room you leave a 1.5 gap, WTF how do you cover that nerd

Dwight A says:

I don’t see 1/2 inch expansion gaps anywhere. Those gaps should be on every wall. The wood by the floor vent was butted up against the wall for the most part.

PBS #007 says:

what is the guage of the brad nailer you used .?

00tact says:

Best hardwood installation video.

Kim Stone says:

Hardwood flooring is a triicky thing to install. But, it you install it, it will definitely add value to your room. Here’s the link to buy the best hardwood flooring online: https://www.reclaimedflooringco.com/

beck-weth beckweth says:

I’m looking to install wide plank pine of varied widths, 12”, down to 6” in a dineroom and kitchen. Having a hard time finding Live Sawn. (Not rough sawn). The installer is planning to glue the flooring to the plywood sub-flooring. From what you are saying I need to nail it, not glue. Also, looking into using square nails that show. What questions to ask the installer to find out if he knows what he’s doing? Thanks for the video.

Jeff Fain says:

I have a tool I know you’ll find very useful! It’s called a Fang and it pulls and sinks staples and cleats, you can tighten boards by the baseboard without even touching the base, you can knock out mis-colored or mis -cut boards (that are installed) and not lift up the surrounding boards causing squeaks later. You can also install a bowed board without using a screwdriver (which damaged the tongues and causes fitment issues later). We have a YouTube video tooo and our website is http://www.FANGIND.com Come check us out!

Easiklip Floors says:

Great video guys! Thanks for all the tips!

HI Inc. says:

Umm btw 50% of that is not needed
One that set off the red flag was leaving a 1 1/4 gap it does not need that much space
And I come from a flooring family and it’s just a longer and more expensive if you did it the the cheaper way it would the same
I would not recommend this way

Thomas Bridges says:

Great video to teach others like me that want to tyr they own. What king of white glue where you using just white wood glue? Thankii

Joe Saccomanno says:

Great video

Romelia Polly says:

If you want you can learn from Woodprix woodworking plans how to make it yourself.

cby fire says:

.5 inch expansion on your start and final rows is the acceptable expansion that works and is about the most your ever going to get any builder or homeowner to tolerate. the left side of the room is always tight and the right side (the cut end) needs the width of the tongue for expansion. The sides barely expand enough to even worry about it’s only the 1st and final rows that need the .5 inch. You do need to treat any angled walls as if they are end walls and leave the .5 SEE MY COMMENTS UNDER YOUR MATH COMMENT BELOW.

 Write a comment

*

Do you like our videos?
Do you want to see more like that?

Please click below to support us on Facebook!