How to install wood flooring – Doorways, Room transitions and floor vents

http://www.howtoinstallplankflooring.com In this video Micheal is going to show you how to not only lay plank flooring in open areas, but he is going to demonstrate how to lay plank flooring in doorways, transitioning from room to room and over floor vents.

0:41 Wood acclimation – The first thing an installer needs to do is let the wood acclimate to the climate of the house to prevent the wood from buckling in the future.

1:41 How to install the plank flooring with the tongue and groove. Going in one direction and starting the first two rows. Leave about 1/4 of inch for expansion. For raised base boards you can slide the flooring underneath and for non raised base boards you have to put it flush against the base boards leaving about 1/4 as mentioned above. Spacers are used to help keep flooring right distance from base boards. Make sure the other wall on the other side of your room is about the same measurement as the wall your started on. This measurement should be about the same. (doesn’t have to exact, but close)

5:01 Sub flooring and the moisture barrier option. We are laying this floor on a plywood sub floor so we are only using Rosen paper for our moisture barrier. If we were laying it on a concrete sub floor we would have to lay it over a cushion moisture barrier to protect it from buckling since concrete draws more moisture than plywood.

6:21 How to stagger your wood flooring in open areas as you work across the room in one direction. Stagger means to leave at least 6 inches overlap on each piece of wood that is laid. This gives your floor reinforcement as each piece supports each other. Similar to laying bricks on a house each brick supports each other.

8:46 Room transitions from room to room or room to halls etc…How to measure and notch your wood planks to fit perfectly. This is where you do not take shortcuts!! Pay attention on where to start your measurements. It is important to slide your wood plank from one side of the door jam to the other so you can continue your straight line. NOTE: if your wood flooring cannot fit all the under door jam you have to use a jam saw to cut enough clearance for the wood to slide under to the other side.

18:24 Installing wood floors around vents. Mark your measurements according to your vent size using your tape to insure a custom fit. Check out our install.

23:20 The tools that we used were professional grade. However, here are the more economical alternatives that you can use to get same great looking floors. Hammer, blue tape, tape measure, hammer stapler ( or…regular stapler) jam saw (or…hand held jam saw) table saw and miter saw (or…jig saw) The jig saw can be used for all the cuts you have seen on this video.

25:30 Michael completed his 1300 sq foot home in two days. Go to the link http://www.howtoinstallplankflooring.com to get printable instructions and downloads on the installation topics we have discussed in this video.

Comments

coverts5t says:

WRONG!!!!!! You take the baseboard off when doing this kind of flooring, otherwise the edge boards will lift up eventually. The baseboard holds them down. Also you can make notched threshold boards with one board. It all depends if your stagger joints end up in that area. The first step is to finish the rows up to the casing, take your measurement from the side edge of the last row board to the casing and add 1/8″. By doing this, you will end up with about 3/8″ of play for the notch under the casing, and your gonna need it. Now, remove the last row !!! I know it sounds like backtracking, but the result is worth it. Now, insert the notched threshold board all the way under the casing until it stops. Finally, replace the last row and use a board pulling tool to attach the threshold board to the rest of the last row…..ta…daaaaah !!!!!! HOPE THIS HELPS

Bruce Hampton says:

One of the best videos on flooring ever. I can’t believe there are so many critics as there are a million different things to do differently depending on what you like baseboard on or off using quarter round the list goes on. Nice job guys. I have done this before but been awhile so thanks for the refresher and tips.

Romelia Polly says:

Go to woodprix page if you want to learn how to build it yourself

Mireya Yim says:

Go to woodprix website if you want to learn how to build it yourself.

Temujin Khan says:

wasn’t finished…. didn’t see the 1/4 molding installed

Vapes and Reviews says:

the host sucked.

daro2096 says:

Or use a manual guillotine cutter. Wolfcraft one looks good. It does 90 degree, 45 degree cuts and lengthwise cuts too. You don’t need a jigsaw or any electrical tool except maybes a drill if you need to drill a hole for radiator pipes.

daro2096 says:

I would have removed the skirting board first before laying the floor down myself.

Base Blazer Pro. says:

First thing you should do is get pro knee knee pads. Or knee pads in general. Youve spent no time on the floor i can see.

AnglerX says:

I wish the friggen micro manager would just shut up!

Matt Lord says:

do you have a video of where you start a full floor layout. like a first story of a house with entrance, livingroom,kitchen,bath,office, pantry type install. my guess is to start on one wall in the main entrance?

Tammy Thompson says:

One question I have is if he had his base boards raised for installing the plank flooring, then why take the easy route and use quarter-round in that space where he could have pushed it in and pulled it to fit? He decided to take the easy way out and as a homeowner, I would have been like…take it off, re-rip it and put it back right. Am I wrong?

Torian McNeill says:

My grandparents are about to have wood floors in their bedroom if they can get someone to move their bed out of it until after the floor has been put down in there

toto wolf says:

Stairs, transitions, large area floors and keeping them straight, spiral steps, and changing direction…??? That’s what I need.

Walter says:

I’d like to know why the hell is the baseboard already up and then you’re going to use quarter round that’s horrible

sicariodsocalmg80 says:

What’s the thickness of this floor? I’m looking to install hardwood floor in my home and it’s 3/8″ thick

Andea McDonald says:

LOVE this video! For me, it is just going to a one time installment… thank you you SO much for showing us more affordable tools to use!

diana00756 says:

It would have been nice if you would have removed the caption boxes so we could see it all.

trebelclef says:

no spacers at the wall pieces? For the vent he recommends cutting a square in the center if the plank is wide enough? He needed use at least a third to a half board at the second vent piece to cut into. Cutting and leaving very thin areas on the plank is not an option at all. None of this info is in any of the recommendations I have read. I am in the process of installing a similar floor now and would never use these recommendations.

kaleb Graffis says:

you all don’t know shit from shineola… you may have wanted to glue your boards together.. especially since there is no locking device on the product… it’s an engineered wood floor.. just because it went together tight, don’t expect it to stay together.. make sure you make a video of you idiots fixing the floor…LMAO

coverts5t says:

WRONG!!!!!! You take the baseboard off when doing this kind of flooring, otherwise the edge boards will lift up eventually. The baseboard holds them down. Also you can make notched threshold boards with one board. It all depends if your stagger joints end up in that area. The first step is to finish the rows up to the casing, take your measurement from the side edge of the last row board to the casing and add 1/8″. By doing this, you will end up with about 3/8″ of play for the notch under the casing, and your gonna need it. Now, remove the last row !!! I know it sounds like backtracking, but the result is worth it. Now, insert the notched threshold board all the way under the casing until it stops. Finally, replace the last row and use a board pulling tool to attach the threshold board to the rest of the last row…..ta…daaaaah !!!!!! HOPE THIS HELPS

Cravens Boughner says:

You can learn more about it on woodprix website I think.

patriot fan says:

awesome vid ! Thanks for showing

Fan Yu says:

Thanks for making the video, very helpful.

Romelia Polly says:

I bought instruction from Woodprix and I build it very very cheap.

Robguru says:

For 4 yrs this damn video has been on YouTube showing homeowners the WRONG way to install this type of flooring! It’s “tongue and groove” which means :staple, nail or float by gluing EVERY tongue and groove together. On a wood subfloor, you would simply staple it with a flooring stapler suitable for 3/8-1/2 wood planks. On concrete, you could glue the tongue and grooves. THIS nimrod is simply placing the pieces together, no staples, no glue…nothing! Thank God it’s his own house! You dip-shits might want to know wtf you are doing before you make a video telling others how to screw up their homes too!!! :/

The Doge of Serbia says:

How did I get here,I watched a Dawko video

 Write a comment

*

Do you like our videos?
Do you want to see more like that?

Please click below to support us on Facebook!