Wood look plank tile installation time lapse on Schluter Ditra with T-Lock™

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Wood look plank tile installation time lapse on Schluter Ditra. 12”x24” plank tile installed on Schluter Ditra uncoupling membrane, with the help of the T-Lock tile leveling system. Seen is the installation of the tile with an unmodified thinset over Schluter Ditra and then grouted with Tec Power grout for a stain resistant worry free grout joint.
All tile installed by Sal DiBlasi, Elite-tile Company, in the Boston North Shore area.This video contains affiliate links, which means I will receive a small commission if you click on the product link.

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godbluffvdgg says:

Sal did a good job, as usual…I’m sorry but that floor is butt ugly! It looks about as much like wood as Rosie O’Donnell looks like Laura Croft…

Sharon Tompkins says:

My fiancé and I will be doing this type of tile in our downstairs/basement family room on concrete, about 1200sq ft. Although I have a general basic working knowledge, I am fairly green when it come to tile work and things like that. What was the purpose of the metal brackets in the 1st row? Was that just to separate from the existing floor that was already there or is that something we would want to lay around the borders of the room in general?

Andy Sparks says:

Sal, Is it not necessary to back butter these tiles? Is it because the notches on the trowel are so large?

Honza B says:

Great job 🙂

1966stihl says:

sal i thought that the thinset went the other way when putting in plank tile at least thats what i understood from the tile association

Joseph Tomasulo says:

I do this for a living too and I love your videos!

groovyme1234 says:

No footage of cleaning glue out from joints prior to grouting???

Henry Lopez says:

What type of mortar would you recommend for tile that is 6×36?
Great work!

Kevin Kliebert says:

what brand are those tile leveling spacers?

Keith Ray says:

Hi Sal, first of all, thank you for the videos and thank you for showing the entire job start to finish. It’s good to see all the things you do to complete a great job. I’ve learned a great deal from watching you. Regarding the woodgrain tiles, I have a couple of questions. How long is the wood grain finish on the tile expected to look good before it starts to look worn? The second question I have is about the T Lock leveling system you use. I see you use the locks on part of the tile and then snap them off at some point during the job, sometimes before you’ve laid all the tile. How long does the thinset mortar have to set before the tile is secure and you can snap off the T Locks?

Rob Bob says:

just curious, but why can’t they make these long tiles without a cup?

yesitis68 demott says:

the straps on the back of those kneepads always bothered me also

Douglas Kok says:

I appreciate your workmanship. However I will never understand why people want wood look tile. It’s more expensive and feels horrible on the feet compared to real wood.

Brett Boucher says:

Sal, assuming you used a Schluter transition between the tile and hardwood there. Which one did you use? Guessing either the DECO or SCHIENE. No need to provide spacing for expansion?

Paul Christiansen says:

sal DiBlasi, im going to be doing my floor next week using 6×24 wood looking tiles and its roughly 1000 square feet open concept, the room is pretty long, i was wondering do i do 1 line of tiles across the room (with lazer) and work from that or do i do acouple of layers at a time and work across?

Rosario Lamberti says:

sei bravo ,

1966stihl says:

thanks sal for clearing that up im not by any means questioning your expertise

Joseph Lynn says:

Nice work Sal. Were the pieces pre cut ahead of time with a typical tile saw or were you cutting them on the fly somehow? I couldn’t tell.


How many hours to put down tile? I seem to be at around 120 feet a day lately. Only because I hate construction work lately!! How many feet can you do ….for real!!

Frankie Rodriguez says:

I’ve been laying tile for 300,000 years and I have to say this is the best I’ve seen.

KB in MD Last says:

Hopefully someone can answer this. We had similar tile installed a few months ago. We were/are not happy with the install as many of the tile corners stick up. Not much but enough to make for a bad day should you stub your toe. I pointed this out to the installer and was told it was due to uneven subflooring. I call bull sh!t. There was sheet vinyl down before so i know the subfloor was ok. The installer said the grout would take care of the high spots. I disagree and told him not to grout it as I may take back up. He used the smallest spacers you can get I can’t see how grout will fix this.

Dndcrazy Wise says:

Crazy how good some people are at this type of work. it’s an art. if I tried this it would be a f’ing mess

Trevor Mccamon says:

I don’t like how every third row the end grout joints line up they should be random to make it look more like a natural wood floor

Roger Diotte says:

That finished floor looks fantastic! I’ve watched Sal enough now that I know what he’s saying when his voice is fast forward!

Professor Kaos says:

Hi Sal, quick question. If you had significant levelling to do before putting the tile on the ditra would you level the floor first then install the ditra or installl the ditra and put the levelor on top of it. I would think level the floor first then install the ditra(keeping the ditra as close to the tile as possible) but the times we have done this we put levelling compound on top of the ditra. Does it matter either way?

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