Step 1: Buy Materials
Tip: Make sure you have 10% more tile than the measurements of the room. Cement tiles are usually ⅝” up to 3/4” so be sure to allow for enough room under doors and transitions.
Tile Saw or Cutter
Rubber Grout Float
Tile Adhesive (mortar or mastic)
Step 2: Inspect Tiles
As cement tiles are handcrafted, remember that each tile shape, color, and size can vary from tile to tile, which is normal.
Step 3: Demo
Make sure to remove any old tile from walls and try to ensure your surface is as flat as possible.
Step 4: Dry Run Prep
If you are laying tile on a concrete slab, be sure the slab is completely cured to prevent white efflorescence spots from showing up later on the surface of the tile as water evaporates through it.
Find the center of the room, that is where you are going to start with the focal point of the design. For a central rug-like design, measure the area to be tiled, and find the center of two opposite walls or sides. Use these points to snap a chalk line across the length of the area, in the center of the floor, dividing the room or area in half. Then snap another chalk line perpendicular to the first, so the two lines cross in the center of the room. Check where the lines intersect with a carpenter’s square to make absolutely sure the center point has a 90-degree angled quadrant. Start by laying a tile at the intersection of the lines, and then use the lines as a guide, as you work your way outward toward the walls in each quadrant.
Most of our patterned designs are intended to be turned 90 degrees as each tile is laid to form the pattern.
Cement tiles are absorbent and should be soaked in water for a few seconds before they are laid in the thinset mortar bed. The purpose of this is to prevent the tiles from pulling moisture from the mortar, preventing it from curing properly.
One method of installation of cement tiles requires a double spread of thinset adhesive.
Step 5 and on you can find at: http://construction2style.com/lay-cement-tile-flooring/