How to Install Ceramic Tile

You don’t have to be a pro to install tile after watching this video. Watch how a Schluter-trained installer shows the right way to install large-format ceramic tiles on a plywood subfloor using an uncoupling membrane. Visit us at SteveMaxwell.ca for more tips, DIY projects, and reno how-to’s.

#renovation #DIY #tiles #ditra #installation #floor #kitchen #bath #lifeatbaileylineroad

Comments

Ed Gonzales says:

Beautiful view at 3:05. Schluter Ditra compensates for cheap, flimsy framing. Proper framed joists with proper 3/4″ plywood subfloor doesn’t need the synthetic uncoupler. When you see that orange it means the framing is subpar. And when that’s the case, the rest of the house is same crappy framing boat, which means the Ditra will be overwhelmed by compound sympathetic shear. Schluter works best over outdoor concrete.

I Plumridge says:

watching a pro at work makes it all look so easy – just another reason to get a professional to do the job.

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Armen Tavy says:

Never trust Luck, use the Tile Puck…..
Armen

Andy Garner says:

hi my name is andy from the uk.ime a floor layer ceramics walls a floor.you shouldn’t have a problem with hollow sounds.if you have spread the floor with an 8mill notch trowel or even 10mill trowel then when you bed the tile in you will find they will bond .always allow at least 4 2 5 mill grout joint for movement.any thing over 6 meters should have an expansion joint to allow for movement.any problems please contact andy.garner@live.com will be willing to help.good luck

Andy Garner says:

hi my name is andy from the uk.ime a floor layer ceramics walls a floor.you shouldn’t have a problem with hollow sounds.if you have spread the floor with an 8mill notch trowel or even 10mill trowel then when you bed the tile in you will find they will bond .always allow at least 4 2 5 mill grout joint for movement.any thing over 6 meters should have an expansion joint to allow for movement.any problems please contactme andy.garner@live.com will be willing to help.good luck

O'Leary Tiling says:

The tile puck looks like a handy piece of kit,I just throw the “eagle eye” on them.

ELMER MONSALVE says:

Nice!!! Work. 🙂

Maria L Montreal says:

Horrendous work. A lot of holes between the tiles. Poor grout. Your trained installer needs to come back to the Contractors School. By the way, what is a “Cermanic” tile? I didn’t find Cermany in the maps… 😛

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Tjfreak says:

@kurotora1 “installer needs to come back to the Contractors School” Why should they? If your out there you’d know hacksters get away with this routinely,right or wrong it’s reality.The market is over saturated & it’s an absolute crap shoot for the un suspecting customer.The majority of customers go cheap,& quality contractors lose out,unless you can tear out the disaster and re do it, then it’s win – win, ask Holmes, it’s easy to look like a hero

mgthaking says:

you need a new sponge! ha ha

Eric says:

He does some of the steps right some of them not cleaning floor and allow it to dry before spreading thin set way before that sweeping and the mixing of the mortar learn from that now for those who said back butter is unnecessary if you read specs you should back butter any Tile larger than 8 inches flat sided the thin set then trowel it so no is not a waste of time does not matter if you float the all floor big tiles always be a problem due to the way they get when they are fire

Gary Steward says:

same procedure over cement floors I assume except you don’t need to wet them, right?

Sal DiBlasi says:

Nice job, I use Ditra as much as i can when installing floors, the only thing that I do different to you that I saw in this video is that I use the flat side of the trowel to fill the waffles in the Ditra and then flip it over to the notched side. As long as they are all filled it really does not matter how you do it. Good work.

Brandon Francey says:

All of the squares of the Ditra need to be filled with thinset. You can not properly fill them with 2 or 3 passes.

top hat tile alaska says:

nice carpet pattern for your tile.

Todd Meyer says:

back buttering isnt needed at all unless you need to raise the tile up a bit to be even with other tiles…or if it wobbles a little bit…or like “smaxwell” said if its hollow its probably not getting proper coverage because of an uneven floor so that you could either raidse up your mud and press down the tile…back buttering gets pretty messy most of the time so its better to just do it right the first time and find wheres its high or low and compensate as you are doing it

Karen R says:

I want to tile the exterior walls of my home can I use this?

احمد الشريفي says:

thank you very much

h8mail1 says:

The only people that think this shit is any good are the people selling it.

yakimaniac31 says:

been trying to acquire a “diamond abrasive sponge”. help.

Lundun Goth says:

So if I had laid down my tile and did not put extra thinset on the back, does that mean that my tile was not bonded well and my tile will crack? I also used a circular motion when spreading the thinset. Er…some tiles sound hollow, but I heard that when you have a cement slab house sometimes it sounds hollow even though it has been properly bonded. Is this true??

85wex says:

could you put ditra on top of cement board?

Anon5K says:

Hello Steve, i’m making a tile table using a universal cement with small pre-used tiles I have cleaned, complex design. In tiling before and mosaics, I had to wet the tiles or soak them. No direction on regarding wetting tiles first before placing on cement, do you wet the tiles first, or soak them?

Andy Garner says:

i find if you have to up lift and pack tiles then the best thing is to screed the floor and then start with a good slab.for the extra in money then why not.better in the long run.for durability

1justice2012 says:

I learn a couple things, thank you!!

madbull338 says:

Don’t believe the hype.

алексей желателев says:

привет из России, можно всё это сделать проще, экономя силы и материал,фанера сорт 24 или цсп12мм, силикон типа аквариум под гребёнку 3-4мм,остальное всё так же,

Bob says:

using modified or unmodified mortar under the ditra?

netman88 says:

Thanks you for the excellent video

mobley says:

so deitra is used instead of a concrete backing board?

TheTrapjaw says:

Un desastre.

h8mail1 says:

This product is it waste of time and money! I’ve used it for 5 times now and I’ll never use it again. Call me old fashioned but I prefer to work on a smooth flat floor. Not to mention the ridiculous amount of thinset needed. And if you use any type of latex modified thinset over it plan on waiting a few days before it’s dry enough to grout.

Ayoub Bourite says:

goood

EdgeStripKits says:

Steve, Nice job! I am very pleased to see that the installer Back-Buttered that tile over the DITRA. The comment by Lundun does mean that his tile is just sitting on top of the thin set.

Doug Flory says:

Hold the camera steady!!

abo3n says:

this is very satisfying to watch

handymandan100 says:

@smaxwell1963 I think maybe he was referring to the method of “texturing” which I noticed, too. Not many, if any, tile guys grout along the line, like tuckpointing, but rather texture in circles to get even grout joints, as well as clean-sponging diagonally to remove the haze. But heck, this is a video on Ditra installation, not grouting, ain’a?

Алексей Стрелков says:

у них плитка стоит по 100 лет ))) а с нашими (экономичными) вариантами долго ничего не держится (все разваливается). и вообще у нас русских все делается с третьего раза. в лучшем случае со второго. жадный платит трижды))).

Eric says:

Been installing on Ditra for the past 10 years so any question reply me or at my Facebook page F&V TILE thanks for reading my post

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