How to Install Laminate Over Concrete (Day 1)

Day 1 Installing Laminate Flooring over a concrete slab. I hope this can help others looking to do the same thing. I am not an expert and others may do this differently. This works for me and may work for you. If you don’t like it I encourage you to not watch. 🙂

Comments

William Chap says:

as you walk on that floor, it moves though or does it feel solid and in place?

James Haulenbeek says:

this guys has nooooo clue.you need spacers for expansion bro..gzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

PBS #007 says:

what are the measurements are you using to stagger the spacing??

Miguel Sarquis says:

how do you finish the edges next to the baseboards ?

mark H says:

scribe it

Tyler Piltz says:

This is a good example as to WHY you NEVER start your first row along the wall. You’ll be able to see the bow in the wall even more so by cutting in splintered (triangle shaped) pieces to fill the caps. You should make a straight line on the floor to work off of. Except in this case, he has all that plastic underlayment which will move on you and therefore will move your chalk line as well. So in this case, you can lay your first row down and drill a tiny hole into the board and through to the concrete using a finish nail to keep it from moving, then use a color matched putty or finish crayon to hide the nail holes. Use a compass and pencil to mark your cut along the wall, then cut your boards to the curve of the wall you just made, make sure you start at the widest part of the board or you can start in the middle by splitting the difference of the board. You’ll want to make it wide enough so that your eyes won’t notice it, like it would when using small pieces to just fill the gap. You’ll see the curve in correlation to the straight lines of the tongue and grooves. This principal also applies to tile setting (which I’ve done a lot of). Fixing the bow or curve in the wall would be the best option… obviously, but that could be REALLY expensive… blame the stupid framers! (I used to be a framer and finish carpenter btw). The baseboards should’ve been pulled as well, it’s a very simple process and 90% of the time you can reuse them, depending on the quality of the wood. Just make sure you’re careful to pull them off using a nice thin strong flat bar in combination with an old stiff drywall 4″ – 6″ taping knife. I always number the wall and the back of the boards so as to correlate where they go with one another. No cutting, or measuring is necessary and if they used finish nails, they pull right through. However, if the boards pull the nails with it, pull them out from the back side using a pair of side cutters (dikes), just don’t squeeze too tightly or you’ll cut the nail through. Also, don’t beat them through and then pull them out from the front, they could splinter or bull chunks of wood out “really, really badly”! A pneumatic finish gun from Home D. or Harbor F. is about $30 – $99 and the end results are worth the extra effort! Seeing people use 3/4″ round molding along existing baseboards to hide the caps in the flooring just looks cheap and lazy in my humble opinion. These subtle details can make ALL THE DIFFERENCE in the end!

kingcarcas1349 says:

Way easier than plywood + hardwood nailing

Bob Lee's Woodshop says:

I love old houses!!!!!!

Аleksey Bek says:

Everything is done perfectly. Like!

Jackie M says:

I too have a concrete floor slab and I have to put a plastic sheeting over it. I should probably seal it first, then do the sheeting and the silver pad too. Right now I have to have dehumidifiers going every rainy day there is so much humidity. The edges of the floors just mold and so do the walls. 1955 house, Oregon.

Bob Lee's Woodshop says:

My home repairs got in the way of my shop time . You go guy you go ! BobLee

Whitley WoodCrafts says:

Your doing a Great Job on that and I’m looking forward to part two. Thank you for sharing..

bartek drabczynski says:

About that crack in the corner. I got rid of my old carpets/padding, and there’s a few of these cracks in the floor that create drops between 2-3 mm.. Do I have to level the entire room? is there an easier way to even these out and fill up the concrete cracks? Please advise! I had to stop the project, because I don’t know what to do.. I really don’t want to level entire condo 🙁 Thanks in advance!

Greg Davis says:

aren’t you suppose to put the floor down before the trim?

Michael wheels-and-bricks says:

so what happens to the moisture from concrete?
does it get trapped beneath foil and starts to smell like a dead animal?
or does it escape to the sides creating rising damp in your walls?
make your pick…

Lazy watchsmith says:

Good job Ken! Now how much beer can you buy with all that money you saved by doing it yourself.

Chunky Father says:

I fucking hate music playing when I watch tutorial videos.

RD S says:

I am baffled as to why every person posting on YouTube feels they need MUSIC. Music typically ruins a good informative video.
STOP !!!

Tommy T says:

No shoes removing tack strip. Shoes for painting the baseboards. You’re funny

Dennis Parks says:

Thanks for the mumbling tutorial blended into the blaring, crappy music. Cheers.

James Haulenbeek says:

always use spacers 1st!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 Write a comment

*

Do you like our videos?
Do you want to see more like that?

Please click below to support us on Facebook!