How to install laminate flooring without room transitions

Show you how to install laminate floor to float throughout the whole house with no room transitions or seams. How to lay against instructions as one piece floor covering.

Comments

livens100 says:

This looks nice but as others have said you just voided your warranty. The manufacturers recommend transitions between rooms using T or L moldings for a reason. Rooms in a house can expand and contract at different rates especially at doorways. This can easily cause you to have gaps open up in the future. Best to use a low profile T molding and keep each room seperate.

Winnie Wong says:

what is the color of the laminate been used in this house?

Buettner Burritt says:

I made it by myself 🙂 I used fot that woodprix woodworking plans.

Faith9120 says:

thanks, transitions are horrid… lazy installers! I’ve had flooring installed well without transitions before and lived in it for 4 years no buckling… I also just purchased a home that has laminate flooring without transitions and it’s been in for 14 years and no buckling. I’m now looking to purchase new flooring and I DO NO want transitions. I guess it’s just how someone installs it … properly or not.

Dean Eng says:

Thanks for the info!

ian gee says:

Very nice job, it looks so much better without door bars

Cassandra Faure says:

The house is beautiful

Carmelina Rosinski says:

Check woodprix handbook if you want to make it cheaper and better.

Roger Albert says:

Great video. Just what I was looking for.

jaco jager says:

Thank you for the video. I do these floor installation and have done this a couple of times. great to know I’m not the only one that follow my own way and discard the installation directions.

Raul Romero says:

what kind of floor is it were did you get it?

jeffery strahan says:

there’s a reason for the transition between rooms. its not cause you have to start from left and go right. its used for expansion and if your floor happens to shift after the install it allows the floor to move without putting a bind on other areas causing joints to disengage and floor to buckle. cant tell you how many floors i’ve been sent on to repair where the installer didn’t put the transition.

david richard says:

The tricky part of the install is going backwards. But… I… the… video… … … not helpful… lol.

M.H. KHALIL says:

dude your english is so missed up it is so hard to watch and understand 

GAMEDOGWARRIORS says:

why didn’t you start from the corner. of the longest wall?

Candi Daitch says:

Thank you for this! I’m getting ready to lay laminate in my whole first floor and really want to stay clear of transitions… this helped visualize what I’ll do! 

TheEugeep says:

Well done mate good video

humanyoda says:

If the floor in one room gets damaged (e.g., due to a water leak), you will likely have to lift up the planks in other rooms too because they are so connected. Transitions decouples floor segments in different rooms and makes them independent.

akrasia1969 says:

Thanks, I was wondering how to go from room to room without transitions.

TiaGo2k6 says:

Took a while but I get what you’re saying and this is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much for the video. Keep in mind, some of the thinner cheaper laminate floors (8 to 11mm) are likely much harder to click backwards, as they’re a pain to put together normally to begin with.

Robert Barto says:

How is the floor now that its been installed for a little bit.  

Steve Hart says:

Great video, on the first wall to fireplace run is to snap a chalk guide line to correct the “wobble”. As to naysayers, if a plank gets damaged and you need to replace a long run, use an oscillating saw to cut then planking at a doorway and then add a transition T to the jamb. I too have a long 50 ft run and I like this idea a lot. Thanks for the tip!

Justyn McDonald says:

Would like to see tips on how you actually installed the interlocks backwards, the groove going into the tongue. That’s what I need to know. Mine doesn’t go in well backwards.

Keli Weisgerber says:

I made it too. just used WoodPrix instructions. just click the pig on that website :)))

Jason Simmering says:

This is total b.s. yes it can be done but when it fails nobody will warranty it. If one room expands or shrinks more than than the other it pulls itself apart in the pinch points. Love to see what it looks like now. Been installing this for years and have even had to take classes. The first thing they tell you is NOT to connect rooms like that even tho yes it can be done.

Mat Black says:

Did a whole home approx 125m2 about two and a half years ago with no transitions and it’s looks awesome and no problems.

However that was with a quality laminate, Godfrey Hirst.

I was also careful to leave the laminate in the home for four days previous to laying them so it would acclimate to the intended location.

Variations in temp from 2 to 42 degrees here in Oz.

I was a first timer and actually found this video the morning before I began the job and decided then and there to go with no transitions and I’m very glad I did.

I did undercut all the metal door frames and ensured a min. 10mm expansion gap around all rooms.

Yes I took a punt on the warranty but I was so impressed by the build quality of the Godfrey Hirst laminate that I felt it was worth the risk. I reckon they’ll still look as good in another ten years.
REPLY

50hellkat2 says:

I notice you are not responding to the kind of flooring and the colour?  Would like to know.  Armstrong?  Mannington?

MYnde Jass says:

Laminate was ” Exotic Series”  around $4 per sq ft. From my experience dark flooring looks beautiful, but consider this, that all small nicks and scuffs from falling objects are much more visible.

Jason Tarr says:

Thanks for your video.  I had one room half done because I was unsure how I was going to get around the wall and go backwards into another room.  I thought I could only go forward so I was about to buy a bunch of T-mouldings to divide the spaces because as you mentioned it is next to impossible to build both rooms forward and meet perfectly after a wall.  I attempted to put the laminate together backwards and it worked just as easily as going forward.  I will now lay out a row or two across to the second space, and work backwards!

Ilir Veseli says:

stock right now on my hallwat right in front of the room and was thinging i want no transission it looks awesome but holl the hell im going to go the opisite way all the looking edges are going to break but looking at ur video gave me more confidence to go for it.. nice video and nicemlooking floors.

FlyingSolo77 says:

Aren’t you required to put transitions in to handle the expansion? Different rooms will expand at different amounts (because of size differences) and you will get buckling/gaps?

nodnal 13 says:

Thank you for the video. Just confirmed what I’ve been doing

K27fan says:

I am a big DIY guy, but my wife wanted to hire someone to do our house. There were 3 widths of boards in our floor, and he screwed up and didnt follow the directions and we ended up short on the big boards and too many of the medium. So the owner is going to take it back up and do it right. However, I noticed that there were many “spongy” spots, where the boards flex down when you step on them. Some of the joints flex inward on each other, and there are some spots that give off a small creak when stepped on. Im sure the floor needs to be leveled, that these are low spots. Both contractors who came out to bid on the job told me the floor was fine. Did you level your floor, did you or do you have any issues like I have? Thanks.

Romelia Polly says:

I am sure you’ll learn how to make it if you’ll read Woodprix HANDBOOKS from cover to cover 🙂

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