How to Install a Hardwood Floating Floor

Ron Call, our “Urban Floor Guy” and a veteran flooring contractor for over 34 years shows you and offers a general explanation on how to install what is called a “Floating Floor” in your home or office.

Comments

John-Leo Mayo says:

you don’t want hardwood floor or laminated floor on your kitchen cuz they may po- up if you spill water on it. especially on the kitchen. tiles are perfect for me for it is easy to clean and looks better for the kitchen.

Darth Rain says:

yesterday i come home from school and apparently my mom randomly choose to tear apart our carpet in the living room and dining room into hardwood floors… it was very random and she did a good job pranking me. I believe these are floating because they did it fairly quick. These guys my mom hired were not professionals and I definitely have no knowledge on these floors. Should we add a protective later over the wooden floors or wax?

MickersMind says:

Who glues floating floor ..this is wack!

guitar1261 says:

I am preparing to put down a floating floor. I have IKEA cabinets. Should I install the cabinets first or after the floor? I will be using the legs that come with the cabinets instead of anchoring them into the wall.What would you suggest? Thanks

Lass-in Angeles says:

What a beautiful job, Ron! Gorgeous floor and very well explained demo, thank you!

I bought engineered wood flooring for my RV floors. I will be doing this project this week. I thought with click lock, you are not supposed to use glue? Isn’t it supposed to just click and lock into place firmly with some tapping but without glue or nails to be a ‘floating’ floor?

Could you please give me some advice on this issue: RV is 22 ft in length and about 15 ft to cover with wood. My entrance door is on passenger side, toward the rear. There is one single entry step into the RV.

1. For visual appearances, should my wood floor run front to back strips or side to side strips? If it runs side to side, then floor will be going straight up as I enter the RV.

2. Stair: Front to back makes it easy to have the stair match the direction, but makes it hard to do the two very narrow 2 inch strips of floor on either side of stairs.
Stair sides: Side to side will make it easy to cover narrow sections of floor on either side of stair which will need a long thin slice of plank nailed in, but will make step a bit more work to match grain direction.

3. On the step well, could I trim with aluminum edging to get a clean look and cover up the end grain of the flooring planks?

4. Could you recommend some very narrow trim molding size for an RV floor edging? I wanted aluminum all along the floor edge, but it may be too shiny and also hard to cut and cannot use nail gun or glue but screws only. What size should I get? 1/8″ round trim? Any other types of trim that would have a clean modern look? Not a big fan of curves. Picking your brain here, since I have very little knowledge of carpentry or flooring.

Thanks again for an excellent demo, much appreciated!!!

Sharon Allen says:

Thanks so much ready to do my 100 year old dining room!

Raptor Jesus says:

nice but with that wood its better to lay right to left. 

Remington Mcneese says:

I am sure you can still buy handbook with all info you need on WoodPrix. Just google it.

Tarek Taher says:

I was watching other videos but just want to know if you don’t have a nail hammer gun you can use glue instead?

bobzthecat says:

Excellent. At last someone who knows what they are talking about, and so easy to follow. thanks.

Maxid1 says:

is this floor suitable for a kitchen?

Urban Floor says:

Additionally the moisture barrier acts as a noise reducer ( reducing squeaking and echoing )and helps level any uneven slab and also helps insulate and keep the floor warmer when walked on , especially with bare feet in a colder climate.

Bil Luffman says:

This is not a laminate floating floor. And when laminate was first introduced into the market it had to be glued or it would not stay together. The first laminate floor had a simple tongue and groove system that did not lock. There are certain areas where the flooring companies will not give you a warranty unless you glue the flooring together. It is definately not unheard of.

Linked says:

Great vid really helpful A1+

Matt McAleer says:

I’m thinking of using cork as an underlayment to my bamboo flooring. Any pros or cons to this?

Riley Doner says:

same

OSSmoove says:

Most informative, dude really broke it down…

Les J says:

Well done video. I noticed the spaces at the edges were left for expansion. That does make sense, but, what is an appropriate way to address the gaps on the edges for radon mitigation?

John Guppy says:

I’m planning to use reclaimed 2 1/2 inch wide solid red oak flooring in my tiny house.  Can I install it as a floating floor or do I have to nail it down?  I’m considering using radiant electric heat under it, so floating it might be nice.  Any advice is appreciated!!  Thanks for the video!

Eva P says:

Tank very much Ron for the great easy to follow instructions.God bless you.

Eastendbiilythekid says:

Nice video  very helpful you do a great job.

PBS #007 says:

and what is the spacing of the flooring board???

VipMss says:

Glory to Jesus Christ, our God, our Lord, our King, our Savior — JESUS CHRIST REIGNS  — May JESUS CHRIST save you

stephen496 says:

Weren’t those expansion gaps rather small? Everywhere I’ve seen recommends 1/2″, whereas here it looked like they went with 3/16″ only. I use those same spacers and they are only 3/16″ thick

Melvin Gray says:

With a tongue and groove wood flooring on concrete slab, would I need to glue each plank down or only the first three rows?

Archer Stephani says:

what is phone number THANKS

davidsioux says:

what kind of underlayment did you use? also, is this solid hardwood floor or engineered floor?

mechaart says:

I live above someone. My floors are very very old (I live in a apartment building that is probably 100 years old). Just want to ask but if I put foam and then thick pieces of wood across my old floor on top of the foam would it offer some sound proofing (as in would it at least muffle my chair moving or my feet making noise). Please let me know.

Bradyvilleboy .Bradyvilleboy says:

Do you have to glue the pieces? I think some people don’t glue them. I am installing engineered flooring in a couple weeks. It is not snap-in, but tongue and groove. It is going on top of Blue Hawk blue underlayment over plywood.

Urban Floor says:

Hi guitar1261!!
Installing the floor before or after the cabinets! We get this question all the time and believe it or not, there is no right answer! We actually wrote an article about this issue, check our blog page on our website (Youtube doesn’t allow us to put a direct link in here… sorry!)

Let us if you any questions,

Best,
Urban Floor

Urban Floor says:

Hello Louis, you are correct in assuming that the slab has a moisture barrier under the slab ( which is now required on newer homes) but for a more complete moisture barrier a second MB is required on top. One of the reasons for this extra protection is that the original could easily have been compromised during construction and would let moisture into the slab or moisture can also penetrate the slab “Horizontally” from the sides.

Brian Shabam says:

thanks for sharing. Have a question, do you remove the spacers after installation is completed?

jamesostensen says:

Good video, are you only supposed to glue the first 3 rows or all of them?

Chris Affleck says:

Its not a clicklock so how else is it going to hold together?

Crystal Keller says:

Ron,
Thank you for the helpful hints, I look forward to installing my floor.

Dan Roden says:

So what types of flooring situations would you need the ratchet clamps to hold the glue joints together firmly? I thought this was one of those times to use them? Thanks!

Eduardo Chumpitaz says:

Great job explaining your demo Ron! It makes it very easy to follow. I am getting ready to put down a floating floor in a couple of rooms in my home. After the wood has been set down on the underlayment and the glue connecting each piece together has cured, will I have to do anything to secure the wood down at the edges? Or does the gap left for expansion just get covered by the baseboard and shoe molding?

Thanks!

Ed

Archer Stephani says:

would you clue together engineered lock and fold

Derek Johnson says:

Thanks for the well done video. Can you use any wood glue for the tongue and grooves? Do you glue all of the tongue and grooves together or just the first 3 rows?

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