How To Install A Floating Hardwood Floor


Romelia Polly says:

so i made it too . just by using Woodprix woodworking plans 🙂

Leo Mumford says:

Thanks for the video. I’m surprised how mean some of the youtube comments are. Some people really do think they’re “entitled” and they have no manners

ll SLAY ll says:

Good luck replacing a board now LOL. Everything will be cemented together

Маша Арсентьева says:

I made it, learned on woodprix website. great solutions I think.

Bernard Turner says:

Thanks….I know we’re not all professionals, but could you all improve on your audio. sounds like you’re in a giant hall! Can hardly hear what you’re saying

Romelia Polly says:

im sure you’ll build it yourself. I made it 2 weeks ago thanks to Woodprix website.

Sage K says:

Everything I’ve been told by three installation experts tells me that this is being done incorrectly. 1. You don’t glue a floating floor. 2. Spacers must be used along the walls. 3. The moisture barrier he’s using is upside down. ??? Weird. Just a head’s up to other DIY’ers. Might wanna watch a few diff. vids before settling on this example.

sethrose100 says:

He is using the silent blue wrong, the mylar side is supposed to be facing down ( the bright blue side down). The bright blue side is a moisture barrier>

Regina Ghattas says:

Great video! Thank you. It gives me a better understanding of how to do this. 🙂

Chris M says:

spacers arent necessary you fools, all the fuckin internet know it alls, “I saw this other video .blah blah blah” if you havent worked in the industry, shut the fuck up

bobzthecat says:

why isnt he using proper spacers by the wall for each length? should be three eights of an inch gap to allow for movement! He is guessing it, instead of using spacers for each piece. Not good, also terribly sloppy gluing.

PBS #007 says:

what measurements did you use to stagger the pieces??

starlit956 says:

I saw on some videos that they didnt even use glue, they only clipped the strips together, like a puzzle…is yours different?

bobzthecat says:

have fun with your floors! Sure mate, lets have a glue party for the kids, they will make less mess than you do.

Janice Woods says:

Nice video, thank you.

Gary Thornton says:

Hey, I believe your silent blue is upside down? The instructions on the roll say Mylar side down, yours is up!

pacoblancosmith says:

I see you dont really reply to our questions on your vids but hoping you get this one!

If working with an unperfectly level foundation (be it cement or, in my case I’m taking up old ceramic tile and expect the sub floor to be anything but level!)…does anything need to be done to level the floor out before the padding? Or does the padding kinda make allowances for that?
Do I need to get self-leveling “compound”(?) or do something else?? THANKS!

TBaker1964 says:

Dude, that silent blue moisture barrier is UPSIDE DOWN! It’s clearly printed on the roll LOL. Also, you never, ever glue, cement or use any adhesive on floating floor boards….BIG no, no. Those spacers gave me a good LOL also 😀 In the words of D. Trump….YOU’RE FIRED!

Leo Mumford says:

Thanks for the video. I’m surprised how mean some of the youtube comments are. Some people really do think they’re “entitled” and they have no manners

Kameron Ackermann says:

I don’t know why but I actually miss tappin the pieces together.

Jay S says:

Love how quick people are to exercise the little bit of knowledge they just learned. There is a lot more to wood expansion than you will ever be told or see in a YouTube video. And sadly most “professionals” don’t even know this info, because of how little schooling is available for Hardwood flooring installers. Hardwood expands and contracts very little along the length of a row. How much? As little as 0.1% if dealing with plain sawn oak and having experienced a 28% humidity change. So in a room this size you might be looking at an eight ,at most two, of expansion under normal seasonal change. You see how stupid you look to complain about expansion gaps in a video like this.

Robert Cook says:

Well the first length you put in is to short and the second two the end joins are to close together. (should be at least 300mm between end joins, also your glue should be a continuous bead. If your concrete floor is not quite level then it should be screeded with a self levelling compound first.
How about showing how you would start and mark and cut boards rather than just gluing in pre cut pieces. just a thought. 

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