Installing baseboards

I made some solid oak baseboards for our house, which I pre-varnished. Installing these was more work than the usual MDF baseboards and quarter rounds that is mostly used in new home construction.


Jim M says:

Lots of nifty tips in this vid !

cody bersick says:

*still cringing from those corners*

Amirhousein Hazratifar says:

Wouldn’t it be easier to fill and fair the uneven areas with drywall joint compound before installing the baseboard trim moldings?

Daniel Lazovic says:

he said that he does not use a miter saw

Винтик и Шпунтик says:

Зачем ноготь в чёрный цвет покрасил?

Bartosz Pucilowski says:

I like your trick with a magnet, thanks 🙂

Guinea Fowl says:

Not sure about those outside corners – end grain – but I think the best way to reduce toe-subbing hazards is to WEAR SHOES IN THE HOUSE LIKE A NORMAL PERSON! Seriously, though – good craftsmanship on the other stuff.

ursumuf2 says:

You’re 100% right to avoid quarter-rounds at bottoms, that’s ugly.

burtburtist says:

No idea why this was recommended to me but don’t mind if i do.

Alan Falleur says:

The number of British English comments about “skirting” is off the charts on this video. I think we have a rival to aluminium here.

ronwc64 says:

I wasn’t sure about how the flattened corners looked before you varnished them but I think I like them. Is this something you saw somewhere?

Donald Shulman says:

Looks very good. Yes, lots of work, but now you have a great looking wood floor. BTW, with so many wood chips on the floor, working barefoot is a bad idea!!!!

Jon Sturrock says:

Wow, bevelling that external mitre looks terrible!

ZebraFreerunning says:


Michael Morrow says:

You sir are one of a kind. Such attention to detail.

Murph's Workshop says:

I’m with John on the box joints ! Unsub! 🙂

박성하 says:


ukulelefatman says:

A tip when coping. Cut a 45 on the piece you plan to use, you’ll notice that the desired shape of your cope is revealed along the cut line profile. Then with a coping saw, back cut along that line at 2 or 3 degrees to allow for fine tuning when fitting. I have laid 10’s of thousands of feet of baseboard and moulding…works great.

John Hudson says:

I liked the video of the the base being made. But the installation was painful to watch. Those outside mitres especially

Liofa says:

Not sure I liked the look of the anti-toe stubbing fix. But each to their own and as long as you’re happy with the results, that’s fine.

Techni World says:

Wait what he is using a miter saw, the end of the world is coming!

supersesqui says:

Interesting vid….well done…picked up a few ideas.

Coldbluefreeze says:

So you do use a miter saw 🙂

Doug Reed says:

Probably could have gotten about 80% of the safety by slightly radiusing the outside corners while having minimal impact on the appearance. Then again, you never really know for sure how these sort of things will look until you try them. Either way, it’s done now, and it doesn’t look completely terrible.

Plan B Cool says:

You done all the hard work then spoiled the whole job on the external mitre’s.

NDCTV says:

you sure did do it the hard way

Abziq says:

Nice job

Larry B says:

I was glad to hear you say “it was a crazy amount of work”…because it looked like that to me. Having just put new floor moldings down conventionally, it made me feel less lazy! Personally, sometimes “looks better” doesn’t meet the “law of diminishing returns”, ie,, “worth it” requirement.

vanboi says:

Cool and a few good lessons for the future, but meh on the coping technique.

legionary illuminati says:

He had the floors done “professionally”…………..the only true professional when it comes to working with wood was Matthias and I bet compared to him, the floor guys were amateurs.

Cameron Barksdale says:

Did I just see a miter saw? I must be dreaming.

ppyromaniac says:

Looked way better at 4:16! Shoulda could of would of done it that way.

Jeffrey Restrepo says:

those outside corners truly ruined your beautiful oak baseboards. but as long as you’re happy

Dale Betterton says:

Labor of love clearly.

Brandon Hall says:

Complains that pros don’t always do the best work, then immediately begins installing base like a hack

Joe Phillips says:

I love seeing quality workmanship. nice tips

JoeCubicle says:

Just watching your videos adds an IQ point. Nice work Matthias.

Захар Хадзарагов says:


H M says:

Well, I don’t want to comment on the outside corner, you have enough advice on that issue. But for what it is worth, I resolve the uneven wall problem my actually adding wood behind the drywall. I know that is time-consuming but it sure makes certain any wood movement doesn’t open the gap. If I am installing molding that will be painted white and the gap is less than 1/8″, I use calk but with natural wood, I open up the drywall between the studs, use a Kreg jig to provide screw holes for the fasteners and anchor a piece of wood, usually a 2 x 4, between the existing studs. I cut the rectangular hole with a multi-tool, save the piece of drywall, glue or screw it back and use some Duro-Bond 90 to finish out the job. If I am careful, I don’t have to add the task of painting to the project.

Tommy says:

“…There is an gap around half an centimeter…” All that american questionmarks popping up 😀

Efrain Tapia says:

I’m agreed with bigwonka is easier with 45 and hand coping saw

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