HOW TO INSTALL DOOR CASING

This is my method for installing paint grade casing. There are plenty of helpful tips in this video that I use all the time.

Comments

alphasportstv says:

Thanks for the point about gangsta style brad nailing…saved me some grief today 🙂

wolfpack4128 says:

If someone asks you to install a hollow core door just walk away. Can I get a door made of newspaper please.

Agreeable Dragon says:

Isn’t it odd that the door is set so far back? Is this supposed to be like this?

D Lee says:

What’s your preference when it comes to trim: 18, 16 or 15 ga nails?

ryan Holubek says:

Nice video…have you ever considered using a sacrificial fence to cut miters on your trim? John Peters makes a great video on this

Jose Robledo says:

Gangster style lol great analogy I’ll never forget.

Fabian_kill says:

Gangster style !!!!!

westwardbound says:

3/16

essential judge says:

I’ve never saw a top jamb not rest on the side jamb. I like a smaller shadow line but whatever works. that set back is actually caused by the hing. bottom line is he has a system and the results are fine. I like his vids because he is at work and it looks good.

mark reed says:

“not always necessary” to nail outside of top trim? … the painters won’t caulk the top so you do need to nail it… ya gotta pin the miters too. Nailing the inside trim with 2″ nails “gangster style” ends up with blowouts because your nails are flatter and tend to follow the grain. Only go sideways if you’re using a crown stapler. I use 7 – 1 1/2″ 18 ga. brads on the inside edge of legs and 5 – 2″ or 2 1/2″ 15 ga. nails on the outside edge. … and wtf is up with that short door jam head?….

Matthew Kubik says:

Great tips! I like to use CA glue on my miters for an instant set!

Carl McCoy says:

Now lets see a stain grade trim out

Volodymyr Ustynov says:

How About glue your casing to jamb with wood glue? First carpenter rule – wood to wood get a wood glue!
Also there is way better method to measure the top casing without “eyeballing” (Like you mentioned). You simply take a piece couple inches longer and put it onto of your already mitered side pieces. Where it hits the longer point you put a mark – easy and precise. And than you line the mark on a miter saw and BOOM.

Also another tip you nail 18 ga nails trough the jamb thats correct. However, when you nail outside of trim to the drywall –> actually to the framing as there is framing right there – you have to use 16 ga and at least 1 3/4″ to 2 ” nails. That was it grabs it and will be solid. While your 18 ga doesn’t have power no length to hold to drywall.

And lastly there are CLAM CLMAPS – you can only buy them at one place at the guy who invented them – Tim Chestnut. You will be amazed what they can do – check Instagram.

These are notes from a professional finish carpenter who does it every day and world in high end custom homes. I understand these might be for DIY people but you can set the plank higher!

Cheers

Chippy Pete says:

Always pin the header first

tendervittles doobiestein says:

This all went wrong as soon as he broke out the planer. Would love to see a close up of the reveal down that entire side. Also, if anyone runs into a problem with a jamb being off plumb, they will spend all day trying to get the top piece to fit right.

badlucklazyguy says:

Are you using a 16ga or 18ga nailer? Does it matter?

SuchaCaligrrl says:

Nice work, thank you for the tutorial.

Cody Kole says:

Thank you, your videos have helped alot.

Mark Mino says:

Thank You for the video 🙂 wish you were in the states…

brian gillis says:

Should the header jamb not be sitting on top of side jambs or box midered togather & jamb pilot holes be finish tapered to hold in filler ? Top jamb will start to fail 3 slams in Just saying

chris ballas says:

Amigo, you are an excellent teacher but you made one big mistake. The reference to 90’s gangsters was lame as is all post 80’s gangsters. Tuco was the first to hold a gun that way. That’s Tuco from The Good, the Bad and the Ugly. Keep up the good work amigo!

Simon99 says:

Good tips. Thanks. But you use way to many nails for nothing.

Mark Evans says:

you’re a great carpenter, but that eye protection doesnt work when it’s on the top of your head

Connor Pearson says:

VC, does the door trim always match the floor trim, stylistically? Thanks.

FUQYAW 2 says:

LOL “Gangster Style” that’s great

shauncho49 says:

Great video! you should make a zero clearance plate for that miter saw to make lining up your cut faster.

Amy Dameron says:

Good Lord it’s a stinken piece of trim, QUIT being so nail happy, the painter would want to kick your ass making all them wholes he’s got to fill!!

eljefeguapobarbon says:

Nice job! Very helpful reminders.

Jim Arment says:

This was great! You’ve got a new subscriber… I’m looking forward to checking out more of your videos.

SlimSh8E says:

Yes, you did get lucky. My experience apparently has been as yours, that the miters do not always come out right the first try. That is why I always put the header piece up first and then match the legs. I have seen many people use your way by putting the legs up first. The problem being is that when you don’t “get lucky” you wind up cutting the header shorter and then your reveal must be adjusted. If you get really unlucky and both miters of the header have to be adjusted then your reveal will wind up being noticeably off. On the other hand if you make your adjustment to the leg then at worst you will wind up with a small space at the sub floor which, if the finish floor is carpet, tile or wood, it will not matter at all. I liken this to painting yourself into a corner, but then each has their method I suppose. One more thing, when I was a young man such as you I did not bother to wear hearing protection either and now I am paying the price. Do yourself a favor and take care of your health at work. Despite my critiques I think you’ve made a great video!

Battarang Man says:

Oooh planing the casing was a bit cringy why not scribe the back of the arc?

Tony P says:

A lil cock will definitely make you look bad.

John Miller says:

You actually know what you’re doing, unlike other supposed millworkers.

Jesse Botkin says:

Easy with the nails!

Korey Stankiewicz says:

Can you make a video on how to hang door frames and doors. I tried and had a b*** of a time and now when its summer it swells and doesnt shut well.

Boneyfreak says:

Ouch. Had a Super put a nail through his thumb nail (no pun intended) doing what he advises against @ 12:06 doing. Left tears in his eyes. Building onsite shelving for commercial projects I’ve noticed about every 15-20 brads wander around left or right of the gun when doing tight inside box end shelving where you can’t “gangsta” the gun.

Pat and Sandy Trierweiler says:

Nice video. Thanks! Joe homeowner here. I am commenting here not to criticize but because you obviously care about the final product. (Impressive) Frankly, hiring contractors is usually frustrating (to me) because the longer term quality is lousy. Example: a contractor installed baseboard in my house. Two years later. the baseboard is separating from the wall by 1/16 inch. Contractor is long gone. He was a pro. I am a nobody. When I install trim/baseboard, I put a light bead of matching color adhesive caulk (painter’s caulk) on the inside outer rim of the baseboard…. Basically, this adds flexibilty (baseboard/and door frames get a few kicks) and glues it to the wall. Then I nail it. Caulk squishes out a tiny bit. Finally, I wipe with damp paper towel to seal joint. (I note you do a bit of this) It never separates from the wall. Yes, more cost, more labor. Contractors hate this… but, isn’t hiring a pro ultimately outcome oriented? Imagine my “joy” (sarcasm) at having to redo his job.

BCCartman says:

Great video, 2nd time watching it as I am now at this stage with my interior door replacement project I was wondering how you handle the situation where the drywall is proud (sticking out) past the door jam?

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