In the UK we never mitre internal corners, even if they are a perfect 45 degree angle. The ease of fitting and creating the perfect joint is so much easier when scribing with a coping saw.
As you said, even in new build the corners are never a true 45.
The coping saw is designed so you can follow a mouldings profile, much like a band saw. I tend to cut the straight line on a mitre saw, or with a hand saw, then use the coping saw to follow the profile of the board.
There is no need to stop and start cutting. With practice you will cut these profiles is a matter of seconds.
Dude u would be fired first day no need for chop saw after cut all coping saw and you were way to slow also no need to mark the spots your cutting with coping saw
I have a huge job to do with about 50-60 corners to do… Seems like this is tedious, but will yield much better results than just cutting 45’s and trying to fill with caulk. Thanks for sharing!
Good Vid. A jig saw with a coping foot or a table saw will work much faster, same quality results with a little practice, but good to see people still using and teaching the traditional older method with the hand saw… not everyone can afford all the tools of a professional
Not saying it’s bad it’s just an extra step u don’t need complete cop cut after chop saw cut then u use cardboard behind each corner to make perfect every time so the gap you cut in there never moves
Completely new to this….so the one piece is just a straight cut….the other one WAS at 45 degrees you made a straight cut to the curved part. It is the coping saw I am a little confused about. Is that coping saw angled some? Is the curved part you used the coping part slated back? (if that makes sense)
Thanks! ;-}~
In the UK we never mitre internal corners, even if they are a perfect 45 degree angle. The ease of fitting and creating the perfect joint is so much easier when scribing with a coping saw.
As you said, even in new build the corners are never a true 45.
The coping saw is designed so you can follow a mouldings profile, much like a band saw. I tend to cut the straight line on a mitre saw, or with a hand saw, then use the coping saw to follow the profile of the board.
There is no need to stop and start cutting. With practice you will cut these profiles is a matter of seconds.
Dude u would be fired first day no need for chop saw after cut all coping saw and you were way to slow also no need to mark the spots your cutting with coping saw
I have a huge job to do with about 50-60 corners to do… Seems like this is tedious, but will yield much better results than just cutting 45’s and trying to fill with caulk. Thanks for sharing!
can you use this method if you need to lay the molding horizontally when you cut? My molding is too tall to lay vertically like the video
6, hîn nu
Good Vid. A jig saw with a coping foot or a table saw will work much faster, same quality results with a little practice, but good to see people still using and teaching the traditional older method with the hand saw… not everyone can afford all the tools of a professional
Not saying it’s bad it’s just an extra step u don’t need complete cop cut after chop saw cut then u use cardboard behind each corner to make perfect every time so the gap you cut in there never moves
Thanks for the video. One question. Can you cut one piece so that it’s straight in to the corner and only mitre/cope the adjoining piece?
Completely new to this….so the one piece is just a straight cut….the other one WAS at 45 degrees you made a straight cut to the curved part. It is the coping saw I am a little confused about. Is that coping saw angled some? Is the curved part you used the coping part slated back? (if that makes sense)
look nicE
That.. was Fantastic. 🙂
How smart?!
This way of coping looks easier. Great Job!
Thanks, i like that method!
Good video.