How to install a stud ceiling

This shows to install a wooden stud ceiling underneath an existing ceiling, you can see some before and after pictures here- http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/complete-house-renovation-t57315.html

Because we were short on 3*2 timber and it was a one hour journey to get some more we spaced out the joists at 600mm centres instead of the normal 400mm centres and then used a couple of lengths of 3*2 timber placed above the stud partition to strengthen it.

The ceiling was plaster boarded using half inch thick tapered edge plasterboard, then it was plaster boarded again using fire retardant plasterboard, unfortunately this could not be filmed as the room was too small for the plasterboard and the camera.

Comments

icespeckledhens says:

Fixing into the end grain was considered a weaker joint than skew fixing into the cross grain due to the structure of timber.
I was shown at the time where fixing into the end grain had failed, it was probably fine at the time of fixing but subsequently failed.
However, there are different fixing these days and we did not have power tools in the 60’s so we used nails, screws might not be as bad.

rrichy l says:

Thanks for the video. Was it necessary to drill pilot holes into the studs beforehand, so as not to spit the wood when drilling? 

Ryan Gibson says:

this was very helpful as I have to install a stud ceiling  under a lath ceiling in a 1890’a home. thank you for the video.

brandywell44 says:

The studding timbers are an interference fit. In your opinion what would happen if fresh dry timbers were used then expanded through moisture laden air, roof water leak, pipework leak etc? Is there a chance walls could be pushed apart and cracks form in brickwork. Do you at least recommend storing the timbers in the room to be studded for a few days first? I like your videos, thankyou

Simon Griffiths says:

Big job on with quite a large kitchen ceiling to lower…. seen your video more than I’ve seen Terminator lol! Hopefully I can do a decent job as wood hates me. Thanks for the advice up front matey

hopndon hopndon says:

Where does the hole in original ceiling go? To the attic? I see to many other issues with the old ceiling, to just be covering up. Whats wrong with a higher ceiling, and wouldn’t it be cheaper in the long run to repair the existing ceiling?

Mazen Algeneral says:

What name is this machine that makes linear red lines on the wall?

atif qureshi says:

Need to install a stud ceiling in a small cellar room (2m x 4.8m) for the purpose of putting up pvcu cladding. The ceiling is only 2.2m high so dont want to lose much height. Would 2×2 timber be sufficient and also can i put the timber flush against the ceiling if i was to add 3 led lights??? not sure how much gap is required from a safety point. Cheers.

Vi Garcia says:

very helpful!

Vulane Mthembu says:

Thank you so much this helped me save so much money hiring a handyman. Keep up the good work.

javier zapata Calvo says:

Afternoon mate, Silly question but it the length of the room it 4m squared do you need to have the beams braced in the middle of the ceiling also? 

David Lowton says:

Outstanding tips as per usual. I’m a DIY disaster but the more I learn from you the better I’m becoming. 🙂

justgivemethetruth says:

10 mils … do you all not use centimeters? 😉

Derek Comer says:

I want to put up that plastic ceiling stuff, but i need to make a suspended ceiling like you have done, would i need to use such large pieces of timber 3×2? Or could i use a thinner type of wood, its a small box room. I want to do a good job, so if you could say which would be the best timber to use i would buy the correct one. Thanks and GREAT Video Channal

Ultimate Handyman says:

@ javier zapata Calvo
Yes, I would do on a room that size.

Marie Frances says:

Thanks for this video. We are installing a stud ceiling in between the kitchen and a bathroom above. What  would you recommend for soundproofing/insulation? Thanks

Michael Jeans says:

Why not just use mf . Alot quicker .

S. Commander THOR says:

hi, i too would like to know why you were not allowed to fix into end grain?
i find on stud work, that makes for a much stronger joint, so i’m a bit confused why you weren’t allowed to use them.

Ian Broadhurst says:

hi dude i like your videos i have got some good tips. i would like to say that you should never use a metal hammer with a wood chisel at least that is what i was told in wood shop good jod

Darren Burnhill says:

Wood isn’t particularly strong in that direction, so you risk splitting the fibres. However, screw technology has advanced greatly in the past few decades and although I wouldn’t do so myself under many situations, at the end of the day with this it’s ultimately only supporting itself plus the plasterboard and plaster, both of which add stiffness and spread the load.

Riz's Channel says:

Thanks for this dude you the man

Keith Whittingham says:

Thanks for the prompt reply. I in Switzerland and that seems to be the approach generally used here. Thanks

Marky says:

timberrrr

Attila Danci says:

thank you…

speedwayfan says:

Whats that green stuff round the window frame at 8:44 ? Some kind of expanding foam ?!

jimmy bhatti says:

nice tips there mate ..thnx

David Shaw says:

Hi there, great video – I’m wanting to have a false ceiling in my kitchen with led/halogen downlights- is this method suitable? I’m worried about the weight in the centre of the room – also, how difficult is it to attach the plaster board?

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